Purchase unused crown caps from a homebrew shop. Make sure you are purchasing the correct size, as some larger bottles require larger caps. A bottling bucket is like a plastic fermenter with a spigot near the bottom. The fermented beer is racked into the bottling bucket with a sugar solution, and a bottle filler is attached to the spigot for easy bottling.
Make sure to clean and sanitize your bottling bucket before use! A bottle filler wand is a hard plastic tube with a spring-loaded tip used for filling bottles.
When the spring-loaded end of the tube is pushed against the bottom of a bottle, it allows beer to flow through. Remove from the bottom of the bottle and the flow stops. A special device is needed to seal bottle caps.
A basic twin-lever capper is typically used and will get the job done, but some homebrewers have bench-mounted cappers for speed and ease. There's nothing quite like pouring your homebrew straight from the tap. Learn how to setup and maintain your home kegging system with our Introduction to Kegging guide. Learn how to keg beer at home.
An immersion or plate chiller speeds up the process of cooling wort down to yeast pitching temperatures. Rather than use an ice bath to cool boiling wort, cold water is circulated through a length of coiled copper tubing immersed in the wort to quickly bring the temperature down. A plate chiller is slightly different, as there are a series of plates stacked together with one tube inside of another tube. The inner tube is pumped with the hot wort, while the outer tube is pumped with cold water, cooling the wort as it passes through.
A refractometer measures gravity like a hydrometer but needs just a few drops of wort to get a reading. A scale that can weigh out once and gram increments is useful in homebrewing for measuring ingredients.
Refer to your exact recipe as to when you need to add hops to your boil. You now have wort - Otherwise known as sugar water. Cool your wort as quickly as possible. This can be done one of two ways:. Read more about brewing. Pour cooled wort into the fermenter. Some brew kettles even have a valve for easy transportation from your kettle to your fermenter. Aerate wort by splashing it around in its container. Yeast need oxygen, and splashing your wort will help.
Add yeast. Dry yeast is the easiest, as you don't have to prepare it beforehand. Seal your fermenter , add a fermentation air lock, and store in a dark cool place. Ales should stay at 68 degrees to ferment properly. Read more about Beer Fermentation. Cleanse everything: bottles, bottle filler, bottle caps, bottling bucket, and any transfer hoses used.
Use a bottle brush on your bottles. Boil your priming sugar in 16 oz of water. After it cools, add it directly to the bottling bucket.
The good news? Finally, you cool the liquid. Next, transfer the cooled wort into the fermenter. The brew-in-a-bag BIAB method became popular in the last 10 years, making it a relatively modern offshoot of all-grain homebrewing. This method is both easier and more efficient than other types of all-grain homebrewing. BIAB simplifies all-grain brewing because, instead of mashing malt in the mash tun, you put the grains in a bag about the size of a pillowcase, put them back in the pot, and allow the grains to become saturated with water.
A major benefit of BIAB is that you only need one kettle. This way, you extract as much sugar water as possible from the grain bed as you transfer wort to your kettle. For example, if you are making a 5-gallon batch, your yield will be 2-and-a-half gallons. At this point, you slowly add another 2-and-a-half to 3 gallons of water into your mash tun, allow it to soak up more sugars, and then drain that wort into your kettle for your full boil.
You position them vertically so one can drain into the other: for example, your mash tun might sit on your stove, and your kettle on the floor. Continuous sparging is the method used by most commercial brewers because it is technically the most efficient, but, for a homebrewer, the difference is minimal, Palmer says.
If you can get a second person to help, then you can get a neat production line going which saves time and effort. If you happen to be able to get your hands on flip-top style beer bottles, they are a great labour saver. Remember that you have to pay close attention to the rubber seal on the top when sanitising the bottle.
Once filled, capped and wiped down, the bottles need a couple of days in a mild place C , like for the fermentation, and then if you have it, somewhere cool for at least a fortnight. For any but the lightest beers, they improve over the next few months, remain tasty for at least six, and are best drunk within twelve.
That, in a nutshell, is all you need to make a litre batch of beer with a minimum of equipment. Once you have the equipment, every batch after that can reuse the kit, further reducing the cost. If it takes your fancy, you can make your own recipes rather than use kits, and if you move beyond malt extract to grain, the possibilities are endless. Read up on how to clean brewing equipment and our top home-brewing safety tips to master your craft.
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